Once I completed my US Route 89
series on YouTube, I received a lot of requests to make a travel guide. In attempting to do a video, I realized it
was going to be too long to include everything I think is important, so I
decided to do a written version instead.
FYI - I am not a professional travel agent! This is just the organized thoughts of a guy
who is passionate about traveling!
To view my state-by-state detailed
YouTube video series go here: US Route 89 Playlist
Overview: It is approximately 1800 miles (2900 km) from
the Canadian border to the Mexican border on US Route 89. You will go through Montana, Wyoming, Idaho,
Utah, and Arizona. I stayed in a
combination of classic hotels and Air BnB’s, averaging around $80/night. It is very expensive around the national
parks so make sure to try and book rooms in those areas early. Before the trip I purchased the National Park
Annual Pass for $80 and it helped me save around $100.
Beginning of trip note: I did the route from north to south and to
get to the Canadian border is not the most convenient or cost-effective part of
the trip. I traveled by plane from
Kansas and the best deal for me was to fly into Spokane, Washington, and drive
6 hours east to start the trip. The
reason I did this was because it was over $1000 cheaper to rent a vehicle from
Spokane as compared to the other nearest airports closest to the beginning of
the route. It was also a less expensive
plane ticket for me. So if price is a
consideration, check out all the options before booking your flight. Also, the hotels are expensive near the
beginning of the route because it is close to Glacier National Park. I stayed in an Air BnB in the tiny town of
Dupuyer, MT, for $80. I got up the first
morning and drove 82 miles north to the border to start the trip.
My trip took 10 days (not
including a couple side trips), and I did each day with the following routes:
Day 1 – Canadian Border to GreatFalls, MT – 171 miles (+82 miles at the beginning as mentioned above)
Day 2 – Great Falls, MT to Livingston,
MT – 170 miles
Day 3 – Livingston, MT to Smoot,
WY – 283 miles
Day 4 – Smoot, WY to Ogden, UT –
156 miles
Day 5 – Ogden, UT to Salina, UT –
185 miles
Day 6 – Salina, UT to Kanab, UT –
163 miles
Day 7 – Kanab, UT to Flagstaff, AZ
– 202 miles
Day 8 – Flagstaff, AZ to
Wickenburg, AZ – 155 miles
Day 9 – Wickenburg, AZ to Tucson,
AZ – 197 miles
Day 10 – Tucson, AZ to Nogales,
AZ/Mexico – 83 miles
Day-by-day travel with 39 must-sees
and 15 side trip options:
Note: I consider
“must-sees” things right along US 89 and “side trips” things that will take you
at least 5 miles off US 89 to explore.
Day 1 – CanadianBorder to Great Falls, MT – 171 miles (+82)
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Like I mentioned above, I started
in Dupuyer and drove 82 miles to the Canadian border to get started.
There are a lot of terrific small towns in
this very rural part of the trip, as well as some great scenic driving.
The first of 7 national parks you can visit
is right at the beginning – Waterton Lakes National Park.
I have never been there so I can’t comment on
how good it is (I assume it is fantastic like most national parks).
Not far past that in Browning is the east
entrance to Glacier National Park –
SIDE TRIP #1.
You can take the Going-to-the-Sun Road for
some of the most spectacular views of the parks.
You can spend days or even weeks in Glacier
NP.
The rest of the day is full of some
very small and quirky towns.
Make sure
to watch my Montana video to see some places to look for.
I ended the day in Great Falls at the Midtown
Motel for $75.
Day 2 – Great Falls,
MT to Livingston, MT – 170 miles
I felt like the trip really got
going on Day 2. I found 5 must-sees on
this drive starting with – MUST-SEE #1 – Belt. Belt is a small town that is just a couple
miles off US 89 down a winding and scenic road.
It has a great little downtown with a bunch of historic buildings. Not far past that is MUST-SEE #2 –
Sluice Boxes State Park. Located right
on US 89, you can stop off and go for a quick hike in a variety of places for
just a couple bucks. MUST-SEE #3
are the tiny towns of Monarch and Neihart, which are just a few miles from each
other. Monarch is up first and has a
dusty main street with a very nicely restored train depot. I got a tour from the lady who lives across
the street – very friendly! A couple
miles down the road, Neihart is considered by some to be a ghost town. It certainly has some old and crumbling
buildings, but there is also plenty of life so it may or may not technically be
a ghost town yet, but it is worth stopping and exploring for a bit. MUST-SEE #4 is only a few more miles
past Neihart – Memorial Falls. You can
stretch your legs with a short hike to the falls. It is not difficult and will take you through
several places to take some great pictures.
After some very scenic driving, you will come to MUST-SEE #5 –
Wilsall. I loved this small town of 237
people. There are a couple of historic
places to see on main street and you must go and check out the Bank Bar &
Vault Restaurant. I stayed the night in
Livingston and every hotel option was very expensive. I got lucky to find a room at an Air BnB for
$60 but could have easily spent over $200 for somewhere to sleep.
Day 3 – Livingston,
MT to Smoot, WY – 283 miles
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Before I talk about the US 89 part
of this day’s trip, here is
SIDE TRIP #2 for those interested.
I took a one-day detour and drove west for 165
miles to visit several ghost towns including: Bannack, Aldridge, Laurin,
Virginia City, and Nevada City.
If you
are into ghost town hunting, then this is a one-day side trip you will want to
take, and I would advise to stay the night in Dillon and then work your way
back to Livingston.
Bannack, Virginia
City, and Nevada City are touristy in their own ways, while Aldridge and Laurin
are just regular towns with a few historic buildings remaining.
I have done a
separate video of Bannack here.
Back to US 89 in Livingston.
This was the longest day of my trip because I
could not find anywhere reasonably priced to stay until Smoot, WY.
Jackson is very expensive and there are not
many other options until you get to Afton.
MUST-SEE #6 is obvious – Yellowstone National Park.
Even if you do not get out and explore one of
the dozens of things to do, the drive is absolutely spectacular.
But you should definitely take the time to
explore at least a few of the amazing parts of the park.
After that you will roll right into
MUST-SEE
#7 – Grand Teton National Park.
It
is a shorter drive through Grand Teton than Yellowstone, but it is just as
good.
With both national parks, you can
stop and explore for days or weeks.
Within Grand Teton National Park is
MUST-SEE #8 – Mormon Row
Ghost Town.
This collection of buildings
from the late 1800’s is just about a mile off US 89 and well worth a quick
stop.
I even did a
separate video of Mormon Row here.
Once you get
through Jackson (which is south of Grand Teton), you will drive through a very
scenic part of the trip along the Grand Canyon of the Snake River and into Star
Valley.
My next
MUST-SEE #9 is
the unusual town of Freedom, which is half in Wyoming and half in Idaho.
The main street is actually the border
between the two states.
There are also a
lot of photogenic old buildings in the town of 214 people.
Not far past freedom is the next
SIDE TRIP
#3 – Intermittent Springs.
This side
trip will not take an entire day as it is just 5 miles off US 89 east of Afton,
WY.
This moderately difficult hike will
take between 30 minutes to an hour and is definitely worth the time.
I also did a
separate video about this hike here.
It is fascinating to
see how the spring “breathes” every 10-15 minutes.
To end the day, I probably could have found a
hotel in Afton, but I got a great deal on a beautiful Air BnB in Smoot for $62.
Day 4 – Smoot, WY to
Ogden, UT – 156 miles
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This day took me through 3 states.
The end of Wyoming from Smoot to the Idaho
border is very beautiful through Salt Canyon.
US 89 through Idaho is only 44 miles so it goes fast!
MUST-SEE #10 is the town of
Montpelier, ID, which is full of historic and quirky places to visit.
A few miles later in the town of Ovid, ID, is
MUST-SEE #11 – an abandoned Mormon Church built in 1896.
Located on private property, but easily seen
from US 89, it is one of the most beautiful and haunting buildings on the
trip.
At the end of the Idaho section is
MUST-SEE #12 – Bear Lake.
Bear
Lake is probably the bluest lake you will ever see.
It gets it color from the abundant amount of
white-colored calcium carbonate that reflects the water’s natural blue color
back to the surface.
Bear Lake is also a
state park so if you want to hang out for the day it will cost $15-20.
Once you cross into Utah you will take the
beautiful Logan Canyon National Scenic Byway for a bit before entering some
more populated areas.
I stayed at
another Air BnB in Ogden for $90 that night and had fun exploring the historic
downtown district.
Day 5 – Ogden, UT to
Salina, UT – 185 miles
The first half of this day was my
least favorite part of the entire trip because it was full of larger cities,
traffic, and stop lights. But when there
are cities there are usually plenty of things to do and around Salt Lake City
are a couple fantastic side trips. SIDE
TRIP #4 is Antelope Island, which is just west of US 89 and will cost $15
to explore. You can spend a couple hours
or a couple days here – very cool place to check out if you have the time. SIDE TRIP #5 – The Bonneville Salt
Flats is 120 miles west of Salt Lake City on I-80. You can drive your vehicle in the same place
many land speed world records have been set.
Do not tell my rental car place, but I drove my SUV 125 mph there! Besides driving fast, you will be amazed by
the vastness of the area. Back in Salt
Lake City there are a couple places near US 89 to check out. MUST-SEE #13 is Temple Square, the 10
acre complex owned by The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints and built
in the 1850’s. It is right in the middle
of the city, and you can’t miss it as you drive past. MUST-SEE #14 is also in Salt Lake City
and is the very unusual Gilgal Sculpture Garden. It is free to the public and includes dozens
of artistic creations by Thomas Battersby.
In the middle of the busy traffic part of the trip is MUST-SEE #15
– Lehi Roller Mills. This is one of the
locations for filming of the movie Footloose.
It is open to visit (unfortunately closed when I went) and will take you
back to the time when Kevin Bacon was tearing it up on the dance floor. Once you get past Provo the traffic will
begin to lessen, and you will start to feel like you are back on the US 89 you
originally wanted to explore. After
passing through the Spanish Fork Canyon, you will come upon one of the
strangest places on the trip. MUST-SEE
#16 – Thistle Ghost Town. The town
of Thistle was destroyed in a massive landslide in 1983 and now there is hardly
anything left except one building that is half above and half below water. It is a very strange and fascinating place to
visit. My YouTube video of Thistle. Next on the list is MUST-SEE
#17 – Spring City. The entire town
of Spring City in on the National Register of Historic Places. You will feel like you have gone back in time
while wandering around Spring City, which dates to the 1850’s. MUST-SEE #18 is the temple in
Manti. As you are approaching this town
of 3,276 people, you can’t miss this massive structure where Brigham Young was
at the groundbreaking in 1877. I was not
able to go inside but have seen spectacular photos online. The final stop of the day is at MUST-SEE
#19 – The Sanpitch Dragon. Located
in Gunnison, UT, you can take a short walk under US 89 to see a beautiful work
of art and hear “the dragon” roar as cars pass overhead. It is kind of quirky, but very creative and
worth stopping for 5 minutes. I ended
this day in Salina and stayed at a very nice Super 8 for $83.
Day 6 – Salina, UT
to Kanab, UT – 163 miles
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In my opinion, this is the best
part of the trip through Utah.
MUST-SEE
#20 is Harv’s Drive-In in the small town of Sigurd (population 429).
While this might not be for everyone, I found
Harv’s Drive-In to be one of the most unique places on US 89.
I was not able to stay for a movie, but I
heard they had 20 cars the night before to see movies on the smallest outdoor
movie screen I have ever seen.
If I ever
get back to Sigurd, I will be making a point to stay for a movie night!
30 miles down the road you will come to
MUST-SEE
#21 – Big Rock Candy Mountain.
This
place was made famous by the song of the same name in the movie
O Brother,
Where Art Thou? There are areas
available for camping and hiking, but the striking colors of the mountains are
what is to see here.
Just a few miles
later is
MUST-SEE #22 – Marysvale.
This town of 408 people is full of historic buildings to explore and is
the location for
SIDE TRIP #6 – The Canyon of Gold Tour.
You can spend several hours exploring the
history of mining in the area and the ghost town of Bullion Canyon on a
self-guided tour.
You can also rent an
ATV to get through some of the bumpier parts of the tour (I just used my own
SUV).
My YouTube video of Bullion City. As you continue 23 miles south,
you will see
MUST-SEE #23 – Butch Cassidy’s Boyhood Home.
The infamous bank robber’s humble home has
been restored and is a free attraction along US 89 that you can explore in just
a few minutes.
30 miles later is the fifth
national park which is
SIDE TRIP #7 – Bryce Canyon National Park.
Bryce Canyon will take at least a few hours
to drive to and through.
There are lots
of hiking options as well so you can spend several days exploring one of the
most spectacular areas in the country.
You
can also just drive through an out-and-back main road and hit a bunch of photo
ops.
Back on US 89 is
MUST-SEE #24
– The Rock Stop in Orderville.
I do not
have a lot of businesses on this must-see list, but this unusual building is
worth stopping and checking out.
And if
you are into rocks then you will love this place.
Just a few miles south of Orderville is the
road for
SIDE TRIP #8 – Zion National Park.
To think that Zion and Bryce Canyon are so
close to each other is unbelievable.
The
drive from this side of Zion into the main part of the park is incredible.
Once you are in the park you can take
shuttles anywhere you want to explore.
Just like the other national parks, you can spend days or even weeks
here.
I did a
video of how you can visit both Bryce Canyon and Zion in one day here.
Near the same area just after the road to
Zion is
MUST SEE #25 – The Belly of the Dragon in Mt Carmel
Junction.
It is a manmade tunnel that is
a short walk back and forth.
Very unique
experience!
The end of this day is a
beautiful drive through Three Lakes Canyon into Kanab.
I stayed at Aikens Lodge for $80.
While in Kanab, check out
MUST-SEE #26
– Little Hollywood.
This is a collection
of old Hollywood sets from westerns filmed in the area.
There is some great history here for movie
buffs!
I did a
short video of LittleHollywood here.
Day 7 – Kanab, UT to
Flagstaff, AZ – 202 miles
At Kanab, you can take one of two
different 89’s. You can take the main US
Route 89, which stays in the southern part of Utah, or you can take 89A, which
goes straight into Arizona then heads west parallel with 89. I took 89A, which I believe is a little more
scenic than 89. Also, by taking 89A you
can go to SIDE TRIP #9 – Grand Canyon National Park. This is the North Rim, located when you turn
at Jacob Lake. Obviously, the Grand
Canyon is somewhere you can spend all kinds of time exploring and there are
multiple entrances around the park. If
you keep heading west on 89A, you will come to SIDE TRIP #10 Vermilion
Cliffs National Monument. I did not
visit the Vermilion Cliffs, but I have heard it is spectacular. I have read you will need a sturdy vehicle
and possibly some permits to explore the area.
As you continue to head west on 89A, you will come upon MUST-SEE #27
– Cliff Dwellers. This is an unusual
stop along a beautiful stretch of driving next to the Vermilion Cliffs. There are some old dwellings built in and
around rocks to check out. Just 8 miles
down the road is MUST-SEE #28 – Marble Canyon. Here you can cross the Navajo Bridge (there
are two bridges, one for driving, one for walking) and get some gorgeous views
of the canyon. After this you will
reconnect with US Route 89. I decided to
head north to Page and then double back, and it is definitely worth it. In Page, AZ, you will find MUST-SEE #29
– Glen Canyon Dam. There are a variety
of viewing points and photo ops of both the dam and the canyon in the
area. As you head back south on US 89,
stop off at MUST-SEE #30 – Horseshoe Bend Overlook. It will cost $10 but is worth every penny. You will take about a one mile walk to the
overlook, which is one of the most photographed and spectacular places on the
entire trip. An hour south of Horseshoe
Bend is MUST-SEE #31 – Gray Mountain Ghost Town. This is near the east entrance to the Grand
Canyon and worth stopping to see the artistic works on some of the abandoned
hotels and buildings. It is quite
extensive! Just a few miles past Gray
Mountain is SIDE TRIP #11 – Wupatki National Monument. This side trip will take a couple hours to
complete as you explore ancient pueblos and participate in guided hikes. I ended the day in Flagstaff, AZ, where I
stayed for free with a friend. Previously
I have stayed at the historic Hotel Monte Vista for $70 when I was traveling on
Route 66 (which intersects US 89 in Flagstaff).
Day 8 – Flagstaff,
AZ to Wickenburg, AZ – 155 miles
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I started this day with
SIDE
TRIP #12 – Route 66 Arizona Ghost Towns.
I headed east about 30 miles to a couple of very unique ghost
towns.
The first one is Two Guns, AZ,
which was basically created as a tourist trap along Route 66.
There are plenty of abandoned and crumbling
structures to see and you can also walk down into the Apache Death Cave (if you
are adventurous).
Just a couple miles west
is Twin Arrows, which also has some abandoned structures (with lots of
graffiti) to check out.
Back in
Flagstaff you can take two different routes on US 89.
I took the more scenic 89A towards Sedona,
but you can also take the main US 89 west before it heads south into the Chino
Valley.
The 30 mile drive from Flagstaff
to
MUST-SEE #32 – Sedona, is very winding, twisting, and
spectacular.
Once in Sedona you have a
multitude of options from exploring the touristy downtown area to various
hiking and nature activities.
As the
road continues to twist and turn another 25 miles, you will head into
MUST-SEE
#33 – Jerome.
Jerome could be
considered a ghost town because it is much smaller than it used to be, but it
is still very lively with lots of old buildings to explore and plenty of
businesses still up and running as it sits in the Black Hills.
A few miles past Jerome, the road begins to
level out and the rest of the day is spent cruising through small towns and
communities. I stayed the night in Wickenburg, AZ, at the Log Cabin Motel for
$75. Wickenburg has a lot of historic places to explore as well.
Day 9 – Wickenburg,
AZ to Tucson, AZ – 197 miles
At this point, most of the
spectacular scenery is behind you, but there is still a lot of interesting
things ahead. As you start to enter the
Phoenix metropolitan area, you could explore SIDE TRIP #13 – Baseball
Parks. There are 15 Major League
Baseball teams that use this area for spring training. I stopped off in Surprise and Goodyear to see
four of them. All these parks are
smaller than major league stadiums, so they are much more accessible to the
general public. Once you get through the
concrete jungle of Phoenix, it opens back up and you can head to the next MUST
SEE #34 – Casa Grande Ruins National Monument. Built between 600-900 years ago, you can
check out this impressive monument that was the center of an agricultural
community. Once again you can get in
free with the National Park Pass. From
there you will have a fairly uneventful drive towards Tucson but can certainly
make it more interesting by doing SIDE TRIP #14 – Saguaro National
Park. This is the seventh and final
national park on the trip. It is divided
into two parts east and west of Tucson and gives you a unique perspective on
life in the desert. I stayed the night
near Oro Valley (north of Tucson) at the White Stallion Ranch for $154. I decided to spend a few extra dollars to experience
a different kind of overnight accommodation and I would highly recommend it for
anyone traveling with a family.
Day 10 – Tucson, AZ
to Nogales, AZ/Mexico – 83 miles
Even though the final day is the
shortest, there are a lot of interesting places to check out before arriving to
the Mexican border. A few miles past
Tucson, make sure to stop at MUST-SEE #35 – San Xavier del bac Mission,
the oldest Spanish Colonial structure in Arizona – built in the 18th
century. It is free to the public. About 35 miles further down US 89 you can
stop at MUST-SEE #36 – Tubac.
This historic town is a mix of old buildings and lots of newer shopping
areas. Just past Tubac is MUST-SEE #37
– Tumacacori National Historic Park. Use
your National Park Pass to get in to explore the ruins of Mission San Jose,
built in 1691. From here you are only 20
miles from Mexico which is MUST-SEE #38 – Walk over the border in
Nogales into Mexico. You can park your
car for $5 near the border (drive up and ask the border agents if you can’t
find parking), and then make the short walk over the border into Nogales,
Mexico. You can spend the day or just
take a quick picture and head back into Arizona. No one is checking when you walk into Mexico,
but there will be a line to come back to the USA, where you will need to show
ID and answer a variety of questions about your trip. It took me about 30 minutes to get back once
I crossed into Mexico. Now that the trip
is over, there are still a couple places I recommend seeing. No matter your political views, I think you
should go to MUST-SEE #39 – the border wall. On the east side of Nogales, you can find the
small and dusty Border Road and drive a couple miles along the wall between
Arizona and Mexico. You will see border
agents all along the dirt road in their vehicles, but don’t worry, it is a public
road anyone can travel up and down. After
this incredible trip from Canada to Mexico, the feeling of standing by the wall
is surreal. I felt a deep appreciation
for my freedoms to have been able to take this adventure. It felt like a perfect way to end the
trip. While the US 89 portion of the
trip was over, I did take one excursion as SIDE TRIP #15 –
Tombstone. 70 miles east on a fairly
scenic part of US 82, you can visit the mother of all Wild West towns. Tombstone is a fraction of the size it used
to be, but it is filled with things to do to take you back to the days of Wyatt
Earp and Doc Holliday. A few miles away
is also the ghost town of Fairbank, which is worth at stop on the way to
Tombstone. Here is a video I made of my night in the legendary town!
Conclusion/Final Thoughts
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I stayed in Tombstone on the last
night and enjoyed socializing with the locals late into the night.
The next day I drove back to Tucson and flew
home to Kansas.
I have now done both
Route 66 and US 89 and can say that both are very memorable.
Route 66 is for nostalgia with a little bit
of scenic views, while US 89 is the opposite – tons of spectacular sights with
some remnants of old businesses and buildings along the way.
I think US 89 is very underrated and I highly
recommend it for anyone feeling adventurous!
If you have any questions that is not covered in this guide or on my
YouTube videos, do not hesitate to email me at
jwise@goshockers.com.
Thanks, and happy travels!
